TC.25.03 - 75% Carpondro
Third to hatch from the clutch, this little standout made quite an entrance, climbing up the egg-cutting tools while I was assisting its clutchmates. It carries an arrow or deer-head style head stamp with an antler-like shape, and the body displays a phenomenal pattern of bold triangular and open splotches in yellow, red, and contrasting lighter tones.
Initially curious, this snake has since developed a spicy, snappy personality and quick to strike but has been hesitant to throw a coil on the pinky. Considering this, it’s currently feeding on pinky heads and even two in a sitting, and is improving with consistency. It perches readily, explores frequently, and has occasionally been found tucked beneath paper towels. This individual will be made available once it is consistently taking full meals. It’s going to be a beautiful animal as it grows, but I want it well established before offering it to the market.
Sire: Ozzy — Manokwari Green Tree Python (Morelia azurea pulcher)
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Dam: Tigra — 50/50 Carpondro (Morelia azurea pulcher × Morelia spilota cheynei)
TC.25.03
75% GTP/25% carpet python-Carpondros should be cared for, similar to how Green Tree Pythons are cared for. Carpet pythons possess a larger and more diverse natural habitat than do GTPs, with varying conditions inhabiting the Southern regions of Papua New Guinea and much of the Northern, Eastern, and Southeastern regions of Australia. GTPs inhabit Papua New Guinea, some of the surrounding islands, and only a small part of the upper northeastern Cape York peninsula of Australia.
It is possible that 75% Carpondros may be able to handle a broader range of temperatures and humidity levels than pure GTPs. I currently treat their care the same as GTPs. Higher temperatures and even lower humidity could be considered for future husbandry and habitat requirements as the animal matures. However, use discretion when the snake sheds, ensuring it’s always in one piece. If sheds are spotty and not in one piece, that can be an indicator of dehydration, low humidity, and/or too hot of temperatures.
All hybrid neonates are established in shoebox-sized tubs in a snake rack with a hot side ranging from 80-87°F. The key to their care is constant monitoring. I monitor the direct temperatures with a digital thermostat and observe where the snake spends most of their time. If the snake is only perched on the cool side, I usually lower the heat by a degree or two until the snake spends more time on the hot side. Additionally, paying attention to the snake's body language can indicate that it is comfortable. Loose wrapping around the perch or excessive movement throughout the cage can be an indicator the snake is too hot. Monitoring the snake's body language and behavior, combined with minor adjustments to environmental temperatures, are key factors in ensuring these hybrids' success.
Paper towels are kept as substrate, with a small 3" ceramic water bowl and two horizontal perches. The perches are made from plastic PVC tubing and positioned on the upper section of each cage. Ensure the perches are around the same circumference as the snake's body at its thickest portion. I spray neonates daily to ensure freshwater droplets are available on the walls and the snake's body, helping it stay hydrated and boosting humidity. I often see them drinking straight from their coils or a slow drip from a spray bottle.
Carpondros are being offered food weekly, consisting of F/T (frozen/thawed) pinky or fuzzy mice roughly the same girth as the thickest part of the snake’s body. It is important not to strain the bowels of GTPs and potentially Carpondros. Avoid large meals to reduce the risk of prolapse. 75% Carpondros may be able to handle larger meals compared to adult GTPs when they are older, but they should be offered smaller meals as they are young.
